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The notebook

Subbuteo teams: the real invention was never the flick

Part of the complete Subbuteo guide

Here is a number that explains more about this game than any rulebook: by 1996, the reference numbers used to catalogue Subbuteo teams had reached 830. Eight hundred and thirty little boxes, each one a different kit, each one with a number on the end flap. That is not a toy line. That is a filing system for football itself.

And it was there from the beginning. The earliest sets shipped with cardboard team sheets you cut out yourself, and teams were sold separately from the game almost immediately — press-out card sides first, then celluloid ones advertised as early as the 1949-50 catalogue. Adolph had been selling Subbuteo for a matter of months and the teams were already their own product.

Which brings us to the thing nobody says out loud. The flick was not invented in Kent — Germans, Brazilians and Spaniards had all arrived at a finger-powered football before him, as we mapped in one game, five countries. The green cloth was ordinary. What Adolph actually invented was the numbered team box: the idea that you buy the sport once and the clubs forever.

An open team box with eleven tiny hand-painted figures standing in their moulded tray on green felt

Why Subbuteo teams were sold separately

Think about what a boxed game normally gives you. Two sides, in two colours, chosen by the manufacturer. Red versus blue. You play with what came in the box, and when you are bored of red versus blue, you are bored of the game.

Subbuteo refused that. The starter set gave you a pitch, goals, a ball and the means to play — and then the catalogue said: now go and get your club. Not a red team. Your club, in your club’s exact stripes, with the reference number that only your club had. A boy in Sunderland and a boy in Turin bought the same game and ended up owning completely different things.

The commercial genius is obvious in hindsight. A game you finish buying is a game you finish. A game where the shelf always holds one more team is a game with no end. But the emotional part matters more, and it is the part that made this last eighty years: the box let you own the club. Not a picture of it. A physical, painted, eleven-piece version of it, standing in a tray.

The reference number was the whole trick

The numbering ran in eras, and collectors can date a team from across a room by its base and its number.

  • Card and celluloid, 1947 to 1972 — references 1 to 55. Flat printed players slotted into bases. Fragile, and the reason surviving complete card teams are worth what they are.
  • Original heavyweight, 1961 to around 1967-68 — up to team 55, plus the World Cup teams made for 1966.
  • Classic heavyweight, 1967 to 1980 — references past 322. At its peak in the late seventies the catalogue offered over 300 teams. This is the era most people picture when they hear the word.
  • Lightweight, test-marketed in 1980 and launched in the 1981 catalogue — references past 801, continuing under Hasbro into the 2000s.

The numbering system was kept consistent all the way through to 1996 and reference 830, after which Hasbro renumbered the range — kits still in production simply gained a «61» in front of their old number. That consistency is what turned buyers into collectors. A number is a promise that the set is finite and countable, and a countable set is a set you can try to complete. Sticker albums work on exactly the same nerve, for exactly the same reason — we went into why in why sticker albums still work.

There is one lovely wrinkle. Before 1980, when a club changed its kit, the old reference was simply left blank in the catalogue. After 1980 the number was dropped instead, and by the nineties numbers were being recycled onto new kits. So the same reference can mean two different shirts from two different decades, which is why collectors argue and why the argument never ends.

Heavyweight, lightweight, and the argument that will outlive us

Ask which base is better and you have started a fight. Heavyweight figures sit on a thicker, heavier dome: they are slower, more stable, and they shove. Lightweight figures are quicker off the flick and skitter more. Neither is objectively correct, and every player over forty is certain their childhood base was the honest one.

What is not a matter of taste is the physics. A heavier base carries more momentum into the ball and is harder to knock off line, so heavyweight games look like a shoving match in midfield and lightweight games look like a passing drill. Same rules, same pitch, different sport — which is the whole point of the physics of the flick, if you want the mechanics rather than the nostalgia.

The Italians took the argument furthest and turned it into vocabulary. In Italian collector listings you will see teams described simply as LW or HW, with catalogue references quoted like part numbers, because in Italy this stopped being a toy and became a sport with a supply chain.

How to start collecting subbuteo teams today

You do not need money to start. You need a rule about what you are collecting, because "all of them" is not a collection, it is a hoard.

  • Pick a spine. One league, one decade, one country, or the clubs your family actually supported. A collection with a reason is finishable and a collection without one is a cupboard.
  • Learn the base before you learn the kit. Base type dates a team faster than the shirt does, and it is the first thing a seller will get wrong.
  • Buy incomplete teams cheap. Ten figures with a missing goalkeeper cost a fraction of eleven, and goalkeepers turn up on their own constantly.
  • Check the boxes, not just the figures. With card teams especially, the packaging is most of the value, and it is the part that got thrown away.
  • Repaints are fine — on common references. Half the hobby is repainting an ordinary team into a club that was never made, and nobody serious sneers at a good one. The exception is an original hand-painted heavyweight: there the factory finish *is* the value, so leave it alone.

And a warning worth more than the rest: a team with eleven mismatched figures is not a team, it is eleven figures. The joy of this hobby is the moment a box holds a complete, identical, correctly-painted side. That is also, not coincidentally, the moment it looks like a real club.

Chapter one

This is the first piece in a series about the club as a collectable — how a set of stripes becomes an identity you can hold, in Subbuteo boxes, in Brazilian button crests, in printed kits glued into bottle caps, and now on screens. Different countries solved it with different materials and all of them solved it the same way: give the player something to complete.

Next in the series we go club by club, starting where the catalogue numbers were thickest.

How many Subbuteo teams were made?

The reference numbers reached 830 by 1996. That is not the same as 830 distinct kits, because before 1980 retired numbers were left blank and from the nineties numbers were recycled onto new shirts.

What is the difference between heavyweight and lightweight teams?

The base. Heavyweight figures sit on a thicker, heavier dome and move slower and straighter; lightweight figures are faster off the flick and less stable. It changes how the game plays, not the rules.

Are old Subbuteo teams worth anything?

Complete card and celluloid teams from 1947 to 1972 with their original packaging are the ones collectors chase. Common lightweight teams from the eighties are plentiful and cheap, which makes them the sensible place to start.

Why is it called Subbuteo?

Peter Adolph wanted to call it Hobby, after both the pastime and the falcon. The name could not be registered, so he took the bird’s scientific name instead: Falco subbuteo.

If your teams are in somebody else’s loft

Most people reading this owned a team once and have no idea where it went. That box is worth finding, and a phone call to a parent is the cheapest way to find it. Failing that, Toy Soccer Cup is built on the same instinct: base-mounted figures, honest turn-based physics, and clubs from leagues all over the world to collect and play with, free in your browser with nothing to install.

It will not smell of cardboard. Nothing does.

Sources

The catalogue history and the figure eras come from the reference archive for vintage Subbuteo:

Corrected here in August 2026: the early heavyweight ran from 1961, not 1962, and a figure of «ten card teams on the autumn 1947 price list» was removed because no source supported it. Tell me if you find another.

Miguel Ángel Villar Alarcón
I built Toy Soccer Cup on my own — the physics, the 57 leagues, the 858 clubs — and I write this notebook: 66 articles in 8 languages. I check every historical claim against its source, and when the sources disagree, I say so. Corrections welcome.